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Mustang Australia

Recent Posts

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11
If the choke is functioning properly it'll idle faster on the choke of course.

I don't really know anything about converters but I doubt this is the problem. I reckon you'd know all about it if it was locked up.
12
I expect if the torque converter is locked up when you drop it in drive it will squeal the tyres
If you drop it into drive without brakes with a little revs then come to a stop keeping it running with both feet you will soon workout if it is a locked converter
It will be very hard to get it to stop completely
On other thing what trans is in it?

C4 - Its weird because sometimes it will go into reverse with no accelerator work and it will idle but not smooth, but once the motor is warmed up if you put into reverse or drive it just "snuffs" the motor out almost instantly or idles slow, I could increase revs a tad more? could the resistor going to the coil cause this? I will do the straight to battery test first positive coil to battery and see if any different. cheers Rob   
13
Mustang Chat Room / Re: The Original Mustang Shop - eBay
« Last post by Gabs64 on November 22, 2020, 09:44:49 PM »
Hi Simon,
I bought my 67 through Paul. I can say that he was great to deal with. As we were deep in lockdown in Vic at the time. He took the time to send me pics and videos from every angle possible and even put it on a hoist to do so. To his credit the car was exactly as described.
14
Mustang Chat Room / Re: The Original Mustang Shop - eBay
« Last post by Simon on November 22, 2020, 08:10:47 PM »
Update. Mustang arrived and is a fantastic survivor. Really happy with the whole experience and canít wait for all the fun times ahead.
15
Mustang Chat Room / Re: Classic or historic rego NSW
« Last post by Micks66coupe on November 22, 2020, 06:17:35 PM »
The club I'm in allows "period correct" accessories, there is plenty of information on the RMS website regarding Historic and logbook registration :thumb:
16
I checked the voltage it fluctuates but never goes above 9 volts....you guys may be onto something

OK, it does seem that the resistor is still active in the circuit.

Now run a temporary wire direct from the battery to the coil - positive to positive - and see if it'll idle in gear. If this doesn't solve it you have another problem as well but this one is worth addressing permanently anyway.
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Restomods / Re: My Long-Term Project
« Last post by Haggspeed on November 21, 2020, 09:22:14 PM »
The next image shows some of the deburring and clean-up that was done to the block.  All areas where oil drain-back might be hindered were deburred and polished with a wire wheel.  Note also, all edges have been given a light deburring too.  Next the block was sent to the Machine Shop, where it was bored 0.030" over, four-bolt Main-Caps fitted & tunnel bored, Decks trued, and all Bearing clearances set and checked.  Then the upper internals were painted in a special non-stick paint to aid oil drain-back (second shot).  The final shot shows the Crankshaft dummy-fitted again.  For the money, I think the Scat Crank is really quite nice with lightening holes on all crank pins, centre gun-drilling and areo-contoured counterweights, everything looks good.  ARP Head Studs also fitted and external engine paint applied.  NB: This is not Ford Blue but a solid enamel version of the car's exterior body colour.     
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Restomods / Re: My Long-Term Project
« Last post by Haggspeed on November 21, 2020, 08:57:30 PM »
G'day, thought I'd show some of the Engine Block preparation.  This will give you an idea of what's involved when putting a big-stroke Crank into a stock Ford 351 Windsor Block.  NB: I acquired this Block from a previous Engine Builder (who proved very unreliable).  At the time it was a good find, in that it was a standard bore 1974 casting in very good condition.  Of the original 351 Windsors, I'm of the opinion these Truck Blocks were the best, with slightly thicker and taller decks at 9.503", with quite a lot of meat around the bottom end too.  However, if I was starting this now I'd get an after-market Dart, World or Ford Racing Block.  They are heaps stronger everywhere and offer the added advantage of the bigger 4.125" bore and the Cleveland size Main Bearing Journals.  Oh well, maybe next time!

I should also point out, some of this work was done a few years ago.

First three images show clearance grinding at the base of the cylinder bores and sump-rails to provide adequate clearance for the rotating assembly.  Everything fits nicely and this sort of attention to detail should prevent issues in the future.
19
I expect if the torque converter is locked up when you drop it in drive it will squeal the tyres
If you drop it into drive without brakes with a little revs then come to a stop keeping it running with both feet you will soon workout if it is a locked converter
It will be very hard to get it to stop completely
On other thing what trans is in it?
20
If you just connected the original wiring to a new coil the resistor will still be active and the new coil won't like it.

Start the engine - sounds like it will idle OK in Park - put a multimeter on it, positive lead to coil positive, negative lead to a good earth. If it reads 12 volts or more your issue isn't the resistor still being in the circuit. If it reads 9 or so, the resistor is still active.

The pink resistor wire is found at the back of the starter switch. You may have to google how to remove the switch. A few centimetres downstream of the switch there is a kind of bulge in the pink wire which is the resistor. On the engine side of the firewall this pink wire changes colour.

As Shane said, you can either connect a new wire direct to the starter switch, or use the pink wire - whatever colour it is under the bonnet - to trigger a relay that then connects 12 volts direct from the battery.

All of that said, reading the symptoms again I'm starting to think this won't be the issue (but its easy to check and fix so worth doing). As I said, mine wouldn't idle below about 1,200 revs until I sorted this out. It sounds like your's is OK at normal idle in Park but can't handle the 100 or so rpm drop when it goes into gear.

I wonder if its some sort of weird issue with the neutral safety switch?

Anyway, I'm sure you'll get it sorted.

I checked the voltage it fluctuates but never goes above 9 volts....you guys may be onto something
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