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Also worth noting, I am not looking for the absolute cleanest example and don't plan to take it to shows etc.

Just to let you know, not all shows are about the 'cleanest example'. Many are just get-togethers and you often get 'survivors' showing up. 

My car's not a daily driver and I prefer meets and cruises to get the blood flowing. They're informal, you don't have to stick around long, you get invaluable advice from others just like you do here and it's easier to absorb when they're pointing to the parts while telling you what they did, etc.

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All the above comments are sensible advice to the OP but the strand is getting off track. The OP is wanting to get into the Mustang scene for the first time but limiting himself to $25K or less which as a budget makes his options very constricted, and, not wishing to be rude, but I think it's unrealistic. The simple reality is that the cheaper the car one finds the more $$$ one is going to have to throw at it subsequently, probably sooner than later; that coupe he posted a link to is a good example as it needs a whole lot done up front. It makes better financial sense to up the budget and buy a good condition sound driving car in the first place. Personally I'd be off to the bank for a small loan of a few $Ks more and taking a serious look at that '68 coupe for sale by one of the forum members on here.

Thanks for all the advice despite how off topic some of it was. Yeah it's unrealistic for right now, but like was said very early I am not gonna rush into it unless it's a nice car that someone is urgently getting rid of. My budget will increase over time as I can save more and more. I don't want or need to take any money from a bank, as the budget will increase anyway.

Also worth noting, I am not looking for the absolute cleanest example and don't plan to take it to shows etc. This car is very much more of a learning experience hence the low budget. I have worked on cars for a while now and just want an experience on an older car to see how it stacks up with the newer ones.

Daily driver that I can spend money on over time to make it look pretty. Incorporating the skills I already to learn new ones. That's kinda the idea.

I was looking at the 70+ but something about the roof going into the rear and the rear in general I don't like. I understand that this means limiting my options even more but it's like a bunch of you said, the most popular are the 64-68s. I believe StephenSLR said it best

The happiest car owners are the ones who buy the cars they like, not the cars they expect to make money on. 

s

Thanks again for the advice everyone (:
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On carsales there is a 72 mustang at $21000 (QLD)

I'd rather that 72 over the OP any day.





https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Mustang-1972/SSE-AD-4862167/?Cr=9

For a few extra grand there's this which also presents much better than the OP:



Good luck with bargaining him down to $25k

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Mustang-1969/SSE-AD-4738010/?Cr=26

I'd rather set a 30k budget and try bargaining down a few advertised at just over.

If you're patient something much better than the OP will come up.

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Tech Torque Post 2015 / Re: Which fuel to use?
« Last post by BAC on Yesterday at 10:59:49 PM »
 :agree:   People who put higher octane fuel in their car than what the manufacturer specifies in the belief they are doing a good thing are simply deluding themselves.  Claims of noticeable extra power and/or significantly better fuel economy are just fantasy...

E10 on the other hand is indeed the handiwork of Lucifer himself and should be avoided like the plague.
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Parts For Sale By Private Sellers / Re: Mustang logo floor mats
« Last post by BAC on Yesterday at 10:34:13 PM »
Any chance of mats with GT emblem?

Also aren't mats different for coupe/fastback vs. convertible?
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Importing Cars & Parts - General Freight / Re: New to Importing, Please Help
« Last post by fredm666 on Yesterday at 10:26:21 PM »
On carsales there is a 72 mustang at $21000 (QLD) and a 66 mustang at $25000 (WA)
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Parts For Sale By Private Sellers / Re: Mustang logo floor mats
« Last post by jiffy on Yesterday at 09:59:57 PM »
+1
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Tech Torque Post 2015 / Re: Which fuel to use?
« Last post by StephenSLR on Yesterday at 09:41:00 PM »


I usually don't pay much attention to this gronk but this time he's right on the money in my opinion.

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Tech Torque Post 2015 / Re: Wheel nuts different front to back?
« Last post by Sean piquet on Yesterday at 09:37:29 PM »
Didn't look to see if it was the studs, I'm used to the nut and stud being in one piece (from VW's and Mins etc).  If thats the case do the rear hubs have longer studs than the front fitted?

The wheel studs are the same size all around as are the wheels nuts. Take a wheel or 2 off and you will see.  As I assume you have a  staggered TSW wheel set with wider rear wheels the reason the REAR nuts protrude more is due to the design of the wheel.  I have exactly the same on another car with an aftermarket staggered wheel set up.  The studs and nuts are the same front and rear but the nuts on the rear protrude more due to wheel design.

If you look at this Mustang here in the photo link below with the same TSW wheels you can see that the wheel nuts on the front are recessed while the rears tend to protrude.   It's only wheel design that does it.
http://www.autoanything.com/wheels-rims/tsw-bathurst-wheels
https://audiocityusa.com/shop/18-TSW-Wheels-Bathurst-Gloss-Gunmetal-Rotary-Forged-Rims.html
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The OP is wanting to get into the Mustang scene for the first time but limiting himself to $25K or less which as a budget makes his options very constricted, and, not wishing to be rude, but I think it's unrealistic.

How about one of the early 70's Mustangs (71-73)? I think there'd be better bang for buck with those or even a 6 cylinder, those tend to be cheaper too.

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