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Mustang Chat Room / Re: Turn signal.
« Last post by 67FBGT on Today at 05:10:39 PM »
On a '67 the indicator flasher can is behind the dash cluster, as is the hazard flasher can, so you'll see two of them when you pull the cluster forward over the steering column. Three exposed screws along the top, two at bottom one under each large gauge; some clusters (not all) have an exposed screw on the LH lower corner, and there's supposed to be a spin-off fastener accessed from in behind on the RH side but if the cluster has been out before it might be missing. The cluster should slide out with care and a bit of wriggling, the padded dash might be pressing down on it. Hang a large rag on the steering column to protect it from scratches.

The front park/indicator unit is a PITA to extract the bulb from. You have to push it in very firmly against the spring and rotate anti-clockwise to disengage the bayonet prongs. Often it will be corroded in place so a soak in CRC or WD-40 can help. Make sure you have a decent leather glove on in case the glass bulb disintegrates, you don't want to slash your fingers; in my experience the glass often twists out of the metal bulb base leaving sharp segments behind; if so then pliers can be used to extract the remaining detritus.

Also check that the bulbs are the correct wattage - they are a specific bayonet fitting, wattage and element, easy for a previous owner to get the wrong one when popping in to Repco or whoever to get new ones and maybe that's what's causing the slow repeating.
Mustang Chat Room / Re: FUEL
« Last post by BAC on Today at 05:09:01 PM »
Higher octane rating or fule is basically to support higher compression.

Just to be pedantic: higher octane fuel does nothing other than reduce the likelihood of unwanted detonation, which in a healthy engine is usually caused by either too high a compression ratio or too much timing advance. 

Modern engines that can adapt to various fuel grades take advantage of high octane fuels by advancing the timing to produce more power.  Dynamically altering the compression ratio would work as well but I don't know of any mass produced engines that can do it.
Mustang Chat Room / Re: Turn signal.
« Last post by Sapper on Today at 05:01:42 PM »
Yes, I'm aware of the LED kits and might consider that later. For now I'd just like to keep the car as original as possible. As said, the flash rate is slow but consistent, both sides, indicating a tired flasher unit - but I can't readily find it. With a mirror and light I can see what looks like it way up directly behind the instrument cluster, necessitating removal of the cluster to get at it - sounds complicated & seems silly to put it way up there!
Wheels & Tyres / Re: What options for 14" tyres these days?
« Last post by J.hatzivalsamis on Today at 04:55:28 PM »
Wheels & Tyres / Re: What options for 14" tyres these days?
« Last post by mcarnage59 on Today at 04:52:32 PM »
What nobody mentioned Radial T/A they look great limited traction on dry, no traction on wet, many sizes available no traction in the wet but they look great!!!!!!!!

Traction for drag racers isn't it.

Wheels & Tyres / Re: What options for 14" tyres these days?
« Last post by mcarnage59 on Today at 04:50:51 PM »
Last year in parts for sale section Ausfox had brand new Torque thruster 16 x 7 and 16 x 8 for sale

His last post said one set still for sale. Take a look.
Mustang Chat Room / Re: Turn signal.
« Last post by Clubman7 on Today at 04:49:25 PM »
Had slow inconsistent flashing in my 66..
Changed to an electronic flasher can and helped speed up flashing rate slightly.
Mustang Chat Room / Re: Turn signal.
« Last post by GEOFF289 on Today at 04:47:00 PM »
OK, next problem. My turn signal flashes very slowly, 54 per minute. Legal requirement in QLD is 60-120. With the stop lights acting as indicators, it must be confusing for following motorists initially, so I give plenty of warning at present. It is the same rate both sides, so I assume it is not an incorrect wattage bulb, although I cannot get the bulbs out of the front park/indicators with the lens off. Any tricks on this?

So, if it is not incorrect wattage bulb, I assume the flasher unit is tired and needs replacing. I am having great difficulty locating it in my 67 convertible. Any clues there?  :cry:

And how do you put these bloody emoticons into the text?!

Well your best bet is to replace the rear lights at least with an LED kit. Even when working properly the original set up just isn't that bright. If you're concerned about having red indicators at the rear you can get kits that separate the brake lights from the indicators and give you a new lens that has an orange section on the outside. You get a new electronic flasher with these kits.

If you're sticking with the original set up crook earths are the cause of many electrical problems in these old cars so cleaning up all of the earth connections is a good idea and new globes wouldn't hurt. The old globe might be just a bit rusted into the housing/ They are just push and turn bayonet type globes. I can't say for sure about a '67 but in a '66 the flasher can is clipped to the fresh air vent duct up under the dash on the left side
Wheels & Tyres / Re: What options for 14" tyres these days?
« Last post by 67FBGT on Today at 04:41:15 PM »
Well I agree there, they do look great!
What nobody mentioned Radial T/A they look great limited traction on dry, no traction on wet,
Yes that's been mentioned before on this forum which puts me off the T/A and compounds my uncertainties.
The only reason for considering 15" is better availability of tyres compared to 14", otherwise I wouldn't change just for 1"; a 16" would be a more worthwhile upgrade but strangely none of these Torq Thrusts etc come in 16", dunno why.
Am digging around now to find out more about these other tyre brands which I in many cases have never heard of.
Your input and wisdom is appreciated, I've been agonizing over this for such a long time.
Mustang Chat Room / Re: FUEL
« Last post by GLENN 70 on Today at 04:22:22 PM »
Yep what he says is true . A lot of our early mustangs are low compression engines and can run on 91 fuel . If it runs well and no pining on 91 you are throwing $$ away on 98 fuel .  For high performance driving / and a heavy foot , 98 fuel will suit you better maybe .  Just remember no E10 in our cars ,that's only for killing weeds  :grin:  well maybe in some late model cars when fuel cost is very high .
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