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Cheers mate. Just trying to get as much info as possible. I'm also kinda maybe thinking ahead, i.e. bigger motor, notched towers................ so id rather do it once
Your original question of whats wrong with it.things I dont like.1 unless they have fixed it you loose steering lock, as its based on Holden stuff2 The rack is based on a GM J car car rack, ie Carima/deawoo, never meant to steer a V8 Mustang but rather a small 4 cylinder car.3 By deleting the top arm the lower arm, ball joint and low pivot now carry all the weight and thrust, never designed to do that, they weld/rivet a plate to the bottom to stop it bending. The camber bolts work hard in a stock front end let alone now they take extra load.4 RRS are hard to deal with.5 Racks in generally limit header choice some what depending design. Modern cars use struts for the simple reason they are cheaper and quicker to install, a good double wishbone design is best. If you really want an aftermarket setup there are better choices around, Look at what TCP have to offer. Frankly if you want to delete the towers forget strut front end and go with a Mustang II type set up, this is a better option and far more adjustable. But unless you want to put a Coyote in it there is little point in removing the towers. Mustangs drive ordinary in standard config, predominantly because the alignment setting are designed for cross-ply tyres . They simply dont have enough caster, modern cars drive well because they have heaps of caster as they all have power steer. Caster makes the steering heavy. RRS without a heap of caster will also wander and carry on just the same. Modified original stuff tweaked with PS some toe in and 5-8 degree of + caster will drive like a champ. Caster will make them drive straight and not wander. I shim the front bolt on the top are to allow more caster, and centre the wheel in the arch I also shorten the spacer tubes in the caster bar bushes, this locates the lower arm better, you can drop the top arm to improve the camber curve as well.
One more
Hi,I have a 67 that I bought with RRS suspension in it. The only really dislike I have is it can be very jarring over speed bumps or any sort of pothole, etc. I think they have redesigned the top of the strut since mine was done (First RRS setup engineered in QLD) so that may no longer be an issue. WRT turning circle the first time I drove the car into a shopping centre car park I completely missed the spot I was aiming for :-). You quickly adjust but it may be that all early Mustangs have that big of a turning circle anyway.Mine has over 25000 miles on it and all I have had to do was brake pads (replaced too soon) and grease it. The rack is holding up fine. I have heard and seen on this forum if you don't use the RRS PS pump you may blow the seals out of the rack.I found the handling of the front of the car to be great but the 50yo rear suspension really lets the whole thing down. My two previous cars were an S2000 and a C32 AMG so maybe my expectations were too high.
I believe a Saginaw pump runs at a much lower pressure than a Ford pump and Saginaws are cheap as dirt. With regards to RRS loading the lower control arm, even though TCP, Street or Track etc have a top control arm they still load the spring onto the lower arm, so probably not much different. By the way I have a RHD RRS rack in my car with standard Ford suspension,only got the car registered last week so have only done a few miles yet but can tell you the turning circle is not great and the rack is quite bulky making exhaust fitment tricky.
Coil overs because, well just because..................from all accounts the car will handle better than my FG GT.
I will take a photo of my belt setup and post it. The alignment with the PS pump isn't perfect but it hasn't been an issue. I have had spare belts and the tools to fit them sitting in my boot for ages in case one gets ground down and breaks but this hasn't happened.WRT the PS pump you could check with RRS what pressure the rack requires and get a pressure regulator maybe?I believe you only get a decent turning circle if you use the RRS hub. They mus have longer arms or something.My setup is using the stock lower control arms as the modified ones didn't exist when my car was done.
Rack and pinion on a vintage mustang are also crap.
Mine's great
Go get a pump from the wreckers from a Deawoo, that's what the rack is from. But Camira's would have had a Saginaw pump I suspect
So let me get this straight, Gary Meyers, not sure if you've heard of him, who just won Street Machine of the year for the 3rd time. Well known for his passion for the blue oval and making some of the toughest street machines in the country, goes and put a Daewoo Rack on his cars.
So let me get this straight, Gary Meyers, not sure if you've heard of him, who just won Street Machine of the year for the 3rd time. Well known for his passion for the blue oval and making some of the toughest street machines in the country, goes and put a Daewoo Rack on his cars.This goes the same for the Sidchrome, Street Machine magazine 69 fastback, built by Preston Hire Supercar team, fully equipped with RRS gear.........Chad McQueen, son of Steve McQueen, builds a Bullit replica and fits all RRS equipment............... but its still no good.........