Author Topic: Fuel difference  (Read 2249 times)

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Offline barnett468

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #25 on: December 27, 2017, 04:02:57 AM »
The Late Show with Barnett- tonight featuring a bunch of dopey Aussie Mustang owners, sorry I know I should'nt encourage him... :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

I see you are new here. Welcome to the festivities. It's all in good fun (at least it is good fun for me). I have been abused here far more than I have abused others cuz there is hundreds of ozzies and only one of me, so no matter how hard I try, I will never be able to catch up...but I will still definitely try.  :lmao:

Offline barnett468

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #26 on: December 27, 2017, 04:06:10 AM »
In the picture I'm still not sure which is Glenn, is it the one in the blue shirt? :bolt:

Oh, my mistake. I though he was the one in the red shirt.  :leaving:

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #27 on: December 27, 2017, 08:42:18 PM »
Barnett ,  you told me you got rid of that photo of me  :itsnotfair: and how did my name come into all this ?

Offline barnett468

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #28 on: December 28, 2017, 07:19:01 AM »
...how did my name come into all this ?

cuz your the easiest target since fitzy has been on hiatus.  :bolt:

Offline QIK70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #29 on: December 28, 2017, 10:32:52 PM »

After a couple of flames through the carbie she backfired through the muffler and blew a hole in it that size of a football!

The entire system was on the list to get replaced anyway, so no great concern, but it scared the crap out of the misses !  :grin:

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #30 on: December 28, 2017, 11:12:29 PM »
If it's done that it a timing problem . What dizzy is it ? A Mallory ? Have you set the timing with a timing light ? If so does the line move ?  Timing chain problem ,roll pin in bottom dizzy gear worn or broken , worn dizzy gear ,loose dizzy ,wrong clamp holding it down .

Offline QIK70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #31 on: December 29, 2017, 01:21:27 PM »
If it's done that it a timing problem . What dizzy is it ? A Mallory ? Have you set the timing with a timing light ? If so does the line move ?  Timing chain problem ,roll pin in bottom dizzy gear worn or broken , worn dizzy gear ,loose dizzy ,wrong clamp holding it down .

G;day Glenn,

Ive adjusted the timing with a light as good as i can get. The line moves a bit, so it looks like the dizzy is due for a replacement. Its planned to upgrade to Electronic anyway, so I'm not going to waste anymore time on it.

To have it running now isn't important as its a fair way away from being on the road.
Moving onto the front suspension.................. Thoughts on RRS coil overs ??

Offline cap70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #32 on: December 30, 2017, 03:19:58 PM »
I would check your timing chain, if timing wont stay stable its more likely that the chain is stretched or gears are worn.

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #33 on: December 30, 2017, 07:02:55 PM »
It will be both that will be worn . If original the chain is most likely ready to fall off . RRS coil overs why ? Nothing wrong with the original mustang set up for street driving with just nice upgrades . Getting rid of the towers ,again why unless you want a huge big block and huge headers . An upgrade the the original ram set up power steering is as far as I would go on a street car .

Offline QIK70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #34 on: January 02, 2018, 01:59:55 PM »
I would check your timing chain, if timing wont stay stable its more likely that the chain is stretched or gears are worn.

Cheers mate.
Now to decide on new timing chain, or straight cut gears..........

Offline QIK70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #35 on: January 02, 2018, 02:02:51 PM »
It will be both that will be worn . If original the chain is most likely ready to fall off . RRS coil overs why ? Nothing wrong with the original mustang set up for street driving with just nice upgrades . Getting rid of the towers ,again why unless you want a huge big block and huge headers . An upgrade the the original ram set up power steering is as far as I would go on a street car .

I like the nice clean modern look of coil overs. Im really stuck between need ( which the entire front suspension and brakes, drum to disc, need replacing ) and spending a lot more for shiny stuff

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #36 on: January 02, 2018, 03:57:27 PM »
Do not fit straight cut gears DO NOT .    :thud:   A new double row timing chain set only .

Offline QIK70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #37 on: January 02, 2018, 04:01:25 PM »
Do not fit straight cut gears DO NOT .    :thud:   A new double row timing chain set only .

Copy that 10/4

Online shaunp

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #38 on: January 02, 2018, 10:17:04 PM »
Romac Rollmaster is the best chain set up and made in Oz.

Online shaunp

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #39 on: January 02, 2018, 10:19:35 PM »

Offline cap70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #40 on: January 02, 2018, 10:33:07 PM »
http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/16677
I have this on my 347, engine builder would not use anything else he uses them in the engines he build's for a few of the historic race cars. there are about 4 guys in the historic touring cars with his engines.

Online shaunp

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #41 on: January 02, 2018, 10:39:39 PM »
I have this on my 347, engine builder would not use anything else he uses them in the engines he build's for a few of the historic race cars. there are about 4 guys in the historic touring cars with his engines.

That's right, look no further. They make good balancers as well

Offline barnett468

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #42 on: January 03, 2018, 03:49:03 AM »
Ive adjusted the timing with a light as good as i can get. The line moves a bit, so it looks like the dizzy is due for a replacement.

As mentioned, it may be the timing chain instead or a combination of both. It could also be weak springs in the dizzy which is a piece of cake to fix.


DISTRIBUTOR WEAR TEST

1. Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port on the carb.

2. Suck on the hose going to the vac can to see if it has a leak.

3. Remove the dist cam and rotor then grab the shaft and try to wiggle it. It should have from zero to just a tiny bit of play. If it is fairly sloppy the bushings are bad.

4. Reinstall the rotor and make sure it fits tight on the shaft.

5. Put a screw driver blade between the points to open them up then rotate the rotor until it stops then very slowly let it return by itself. Once it stops moving, try to rotate it back to its full stop position. If it moves any more, the springs are likely weak.

6. Rotate the rotor from full stop just a little, if it moves extremely easily, the springs are weak. There should be a fair amount of resistance to turning.


TIMING CHAIN PLAY TEST

Put a mark on the damper at tdc with liquid white out or similar. Rotate the engine until the timing mark is at tdc. Rotate the engine the opposite direction until you see the distributor rotor start to move then put a mark on the damper. If the marks are more then 10 mm apart, your timing set is wasted. If thy are 5 mm apart, the chain is not worn, however, if it is the original chain, it must be replaced irregardless because they have a plastic upper gear that gets brittle after 50 years and will break at some point.

Do this test a couple times to make certain you are doing it correctly to eliminate inaccurate readings. Every time you return the engine to tdc, go past tdc around 10 mm then rotate it back to tdc then start the test again. This will remove any slack in the chain.


IGNITION TIMING TEST

With the engine warm, start engine then lower the idle so it is fairly slow but not close to stalling.

Set the timing to 6 degrees before tdc.

Lower idle again if necessary

Rotate the distributor clockwise 3 degrees and listen for an increase in rpm. If the rpm increase noticeably, like by maybe 100 rpm. Ths is a better setting.

Lower idle to its previous setting and rotate the distributor clockwise 3 degrees and listen for an increase in rpm. If the rpm increase noticeably, like by maybe 100 rpm. This is a better setting.

Lower idle to its previous setting and rotate the distributor clockwise 3 degrees and listen for an increase in rpm. If the rpm increase noticeably, like by maybe 100 rpm. This is a better setting.

Keep doing this until the rpm increase by very little or not at all. Once this point is reached, reduce the timing by 3 degrees and this should be very close to ideal for idling.

Next you get to set the idle back to 6 degrees then set the rpm to around 2000 and do the same test.

Post all results.


CRANK DAMPER

We need more info on your engine. If it is stock, do not buy a $300.00 balancer. Get a stock replacement. There is a company based in oz that makes some very good ones but I have alzheimers and can't remember the name now.


BLING & REMOVING SHOCK TOWERS

Nothing wrong with bling or body mods.

If you are not racing it and just want it to look custom, go ahead, but see what engineering approvals you need first.


 







Offline QIK70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #43 on: January 03, 2018, 07:08:47 AM »
As mentioned, it may be the timing chain instead or a combination of both. It could also be weak springs in the dizzy which is a piece of cake to fix.


DISTRIBUTOR WEAR TEST

1. Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port on the carb.

2. Suck on the hose going to the vac can to see if it has a leak.

3. Remove the dist cam and rotor then grab the shaft and try to wiggle it. It should have from zero to just a tiny bit of play. If it is fairly sloppy the bushings are bad.

4. Reinstall the rotor and make sure it fits tight on the shaft.

5. Put a screw driver blade between the points to open them up then rotate the rotor until it stops then very slowly let it return by itself. Once it stops moving, try to rotate it back to its full stop position. If it moves any more, the springs are likely weak.

6. Rotate the rotor from full stop just a little, if it moves extremely easily, the springs are weak. There should be a fair amount of resistance to turning.


TIMING CHAIN PLAY TEST

Put a mark on the damper at tdc with liquid white out or similar. Rotate the engine until the timing mark is at tdc. Rotate the engine the opposite direction until you see the distributor rotor start to move then put a mark on the damper. If the marks are more then 10 mm apart, your timing set is wasted. If thy are 5 mm apart, the chain is not worn, however, if it is the original chain, it must be replaced irregardless because they have a plastic upper gear that gets brittle after 50 years and will break at some point.

Do this test a couple times to make certain you are doing it correctly to eliminate inaccurate readings. Every time you return the engine to tdc, go past tdc around 10 mm then rotate it back to tdc then start the test again. This will remove any slack in the chain.


IGNITION TIMING TEST

With the engine warm, start engine then lower the idle so it is fairly slow but not close to stalling.

Set the timing to 6 degrees before tdc.

Lower idle again if necessary

Rotate the distributor clockwise 3 degrees and listen for an increase in rpm. If the rpm increase noticeably, like by maybe 100 rpm. Ths is a better setting.

Lower idle to its previous setting and rotate the distributor clockwise 3 degrees and listen for an increase in rpm. If the rpm increase noticeably, like by maybe 100 rpm. This is a better setting.

Lower idle to its previous setting and rotate the distributor clockwise 3 degrees and listen for an increase in rpm. If the rpm increase noticeably, like by maybe 100 rpm. This is a better setting.

Keep doing this until the rpm increase by very little or not at all. Once this point is reached, reduce the timing by 3 degrees and this should be very close to ideal for idling.

Next you get to set the idle back to 6 degrees then set the rpm to around 2000 and do the same test.

Post all results.


CRANK DAMPER

We need more info on your engine. If it is stock, do not buy a $300.00 balancer. Get a stock replacement. There is a company based in oz that makes some very good ones but I have alzheimers and can't remember the name now.


BLING & REMOVING SHOCK TOWERS

Nothing wrong with bling or body mods.

If you are not racing it and just want it to look custom, go ahead, but see what engineering approvals you need first.

Cheers Barnett!!  :cheers:
I'm half way through dissembling the front suspension, I'll get onto it once thats all done.

Offline barnett468

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #44 on: January 03, 2018, 01:11:38 PM »
Cheers Barnett!!  :cheers:
I'm half way through dissembling the front suspension, I'll get onto it once thats all done.

 :thumb:

Offline QIK70

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Re: Fuel difference
« Reply #45 on: January 29, 2018, 10:23:00 PM »
And I'm back............
Soooooooo, its now running smooth.

It ended up being either the points or the condenser. After replacing both of them and setting them correctly, she purrs like a kitten.
They must have given up the ghost around the same time I put fuel into it, which is why I thought it had something to do with it.  :ouch:

Anyway, she's happy, which means so am I

Thanks for all the advice  :smile01:

 

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