Author Topic: 67 Coupe - Vapourizer (Read 13006 times)

aus_67stang · « **Reply #25 on:** August 01, 2017, 06:48:35 PM »

Quote from: Husky65 on August 01, 2017, 06:18:41 PM

Yeah that's right, the extension housing is longer on the au's, and I had to relocate the crossmember back as well as the shifter hole. To be honest, having the shifter back a few inches makes it a bit more comfy, but not at the worth of all that work if you don't have to.

It was around 690 for the pedal conversion, around 500 for the thrust bearing, shims, braided lines and reservoir. This was a couple years ago now so may have changed.
I got all the clutch/shifter etc from the states via ebay...much cheaper.
Also, replace the shifter cup bushing with a bronze one you can buy on ebay. The plastic one is pretty crappy, and the bronze one did firm up the shift a fair bit.

ok, not too bad I guess.... I need to adjust the pedal box as the person who done the firewall conversion must have had a bent string line and the firewall / pedal box mounting area isn't square, I need to adjust the mount section to lineup with the firewall alignment... So I have to cut up the pedal box anyway so I may have a hack at it on my own to start with and see how it goes.

I nee the slightly shorter gearbox housing after the frame work that I've done for the seats, if it goes too far towards the rear of the car there will be clearance issues with the uni joint and frame.

Husky350 · « **Reply #26 on:** August 01, 2017, 06:55:20 PM »

I have a few photos of the modified pedal box if you want to use it as reference. I"m not positive, but I think they might use a ba falcon clutch master cylinder.

aus_67stang · « **Reply #27 on:** August 01, 2017, 06:57:27 PM »

Quote from: Husky65 on August 01, 2017, 06:55:20 PM

I have a few photos of the modified pedal box if you want to use it as reference. I"m not positive, but I think they might use a ba falcon clutch master cylinder.

that'd be great, the next rebuild project is the pedal box so it's perfect timing.

Husky350 · « **Reply #28 on:** August 01, 2017, 07:09:54 PM »

I bought a new pedal box off a guy from the states that adjusts the brake pedal for use with a later model booster, aswell as adding a rollerized bearing. You can buy the bearing off him via ebay, would recommend it. http://stores.ebay.com/MustangSteve-Performance?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

I can also recommend his rear brake disc bracket. It allows fitment of late model mustang discs/calipers. My whole rear brake assembly cost about $800, brand new parts.

aus_67stang · « **Reply #29 on:** August 01, 2017, 07:57:55 PM »

Quote from: Husky65 on August 01, 2017, 07:09:54 PM

I bought a new pedal box off a guy from the states that adjusts the brake pedal for use with a later model booster, aswell as adding a rollerized bearing. You can buy the bearing off him via ebay, would recommend it. http://stores.ebay.com/MustangSteve-Performance?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

I can also recommend his rear brake disc bracket. It allows fitment of late model mustang discs/calipers. My whole rear brake assembly cost about $800, brand new parts.

Awesome photos, thanks for the info, a quick hunt and the master definitely looks like a BA type so I know the direction to head from there..... and the roller bearings look good too!!

I already have a set of RRS 285mm rear discs, hopefully they help puller her up nicely.

I've also got a set of Lokar pedal covers and a Lokar accelerator pedal sitting on the shelf, they look pretty good in the photos you have; do they holdup well, after the 3000k's of use?

aus_67stang · « **Reply #30 on:** September 03, 2017, 05:08:05 PM »

It's been a quiet few weeks, most of the time has been spent research the clutch and brake setup and the approach to take base on all the good info provided by Husky65.

Went for a visit to see the body / paint guy, a fair bit of progress has been made and is in the final stages of prep :D since a bit of work was needed to enure the dash was straight, I decided to have a test fit of the dash before it gets some color.

shaunp · « **Reply #31 on:** September 04, 2017, 05:14:54 PM »

RHD I just used a Falcon pedal box and welded the dash end of the mustang one to it. Then falcon booster and Clutch master cylinder from an XB . Then all the pedal ratios are correct. I run a Toploader so it has an external slave and got braided line from Mal Wood.

mwizz · « **Reply #32 on:** September 04, 2017, 07:54:57 PM »

Just caught up with this thread. Great to see another build thread going.

aus_67stang · « **Reply #33 on:** September 10, 2017, 05:49:01 PM »

Quote from: shaunp on September 04, 2017, 05:14:54 PM

RHD I just used a Falcon pedal box and welded the dash end of the mustang one to it. Then falcon booster and Clutch master cylinder from an XB . Then all the pedal ratios are correct. I run a Toploader so it has an external slave and got braided line from Mal Wood.

Thanks shaunp, still looking at all options, I was going to try and have it done before the car returns from paint have decided to wait until it returns to ensure everything lines up correctly.

aus_67stang · « **Reply #34 on:** September 23, 2017, 08:17:14 PM »

Today was another step closer, down to see the progress and in stead of the painter preparing a sample paint card he decided to go with painting one of the small panels .... no buffing or polish work, it's a little hard to see some of the metallic effect in the photos but the video is better.

Video of the panel:

Then on to modifying the door lock mechanism to accommodate the central locking solenoid.

Husky350 · « **Reply #35 on:** September 23, 2017, 10:44:57 PM »

Nice job on the solenoids, they look pretty big. Looks so much easier to do it with the locks out, can't believe I installed them with one arm through the door with only my sense of touch to guide me.

The colour looks great too. Is that what the exterior colour will be?

aus_67stang · « **Reply #36 on:** September 23, 2017, 11:42:31 PM »

its strange how large the solenoids look, I think it looks worse because they are closer to the camera / phone :( and was much, much easier out than what it would have been in the car.

Yup, thats going to be the external color too.... Its a 2006 BA colour called Ego.

USA066 · « **Reply #37 on:** September 24, 2017, 12:05:21 AM »

Solonoids look about right, quite large. I screwed mine to the door frame behind the panel and connected the rod through the eyelet and clamped it to the lock rod on my 66. Works fines. A lot better not having to use the key. Nice colour to.

shaunp · « **Reply #38 on:** September 26, 2017, 08:30:42 PM »

You are doing it gloss inside? they were satin origianlly

Dwayne · « **Reply #39 on:** September 26, 2017, 08:44:20 PM »

Bookmarking this page for the power door lock photos

aus_67stang · « **Reply #40 on:** September 28, 2017, 04:10:26 PM »

Quote from: USA066 on September 24, 2017, 12:05:21 AM

Solonoids look about right, quite large. I screwed mine to the door frame behind the panel and connected the rod through the eyelet and clamped it to the lock rod on my 66. Works fines. A lot better not having to use the key. Nice colour to.

I was trying to work out how to mount them in the door and not having it fowl the window, etc., since I'm removing the external door lock I thought this would work well too.

Quote from: shaunp on September 26, 2017, 08:30:42 PM

You are doing it gloss inside? they were satin originally

shaunp, still going gloss, I know it's not standard but there's going to be a few things that won't be original so it will sort of work (hopefully) :)

Quote from: Dwayne on September 26, 2017, 08:44:20 PM

Bookmarking this page for the power door lock photos

Cool Dwayne, hope they help a little for future reference.

aus_67stang · « **Reply #41 on:** November 13, 2017, 10:51:32 AM »

The long wait is now over, the old girl has arrived home all dressed up and ready for the dance

you can see a short video of the colour:

and now it's time to start putting everything on her, below is the fuel cap reassembled :)

Azz67 · « **Reply #42 on:** November 13, 2017, 04:41:45 PM »

That looks sick and will look even better with shiney chromey bits on it..

Well done mate.

aus_67stang · « **Reply #43 on:** February 18, 2018, 09:55:53 PM »

There's been a few updates over the past few weeks...
- Tail lights & backup lamps sorted
- I'm using Car Builders heat and acoustic insulation in the roof and then the headliner all done
- rear glass is in
- all the door rubbers & window to roof rail seals done!
- rear 1/4 windows in
- California Pony Cars mirrors painted and fitted

a pity the sun wasn't out for most of the time but still get to see the sparkle now and again :)

StephenSLR · « **Reply #44 on:** February 19, 2018, 07:42:07 AM »

Quote from: aus_67stang on July 31, 2017, 09:40:27 PM

I find that the previous owner decided to replace the rear qtr, but instead of getting new replacements he gets a rear qtr section from a junked mustang. He unpicks some of qtr (at the door jam and roof sail (if you call it that) but the just cuts around the inner wheel well and past the tail lights so he doesn't have to unpick & weld all those spotwelds.

You're lucky, there was a pic here of one PO that welded the new quarter on top of the old one, lol

s

aus_67stang · « **Reply #45 on:** March 21, 2018, 07:41:06 PM »

More progress :)

Finally got around to doing the Pedal box, sourced a BA / BF manual setup and used both the clutch assembly and brake pedal which means the pedals no longer point to the left. Everything had to be customised to the firewall and not a standard pedal box since it is so out of whack.

I also used the BA switches for the brake and brake fail lights.

from: