Author Topic: SHELBY 1" drop TEMPLATE  (Read 2857 times)

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Offline Shermatt

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« on: May 10, 2010, 10:46:09 PM »
Was just cruising for some information on a clients car and found this. Thought I would cut and paste it. Havent read all the steps but anyone can RE-edit it and I will change it....says something about using beser blocks.....probably something I wouldnt do :w



Shelby Drop Front Suspension Mod.      
During hard cornering the Mustang body had a tendency to lift a wheel off  the pavement and to plow in to the turn.
Klaus Arning, Ford's own  suspension engineer, redesigned the front end of the car by lowering the inner pivot of the upper control arms exactly one inch.
Lowering the body resulted in greater changes in the wheel camber during cornering, keeping  the wheels vertical to the ground.
It also lowered the front end's roll center and reduced the body's plowing.
To further stiffen the front end, a 1.00 inch anti-roll bar replaced the stock .84 inch stock GT bar. The live, rear axle was held in place with a 4-leaf, semi-elliptical leaf spring and beefy torque reaction arms sitting on top of the axle and anchored through the floor to the chassis.  
These changes made the car handle more quickly and precisely.  





Lowering the Front End of a Mustang

One of the Shelby American tricks on the early GT 350s was to lower the body.
The factory did this modification to all 65's and the 66's up to and including #252.
This was Ford engineer Klaus Arning's idea.
Klaus also developed the suspensions for the 427 Cobras and the GT 40.
He happened on to the idea of lowering the control arms while experimenting with an independent suspension rear end for the 1964 Mustang.
Ford vetoed the extra cost of an independent rear suspension in the Mustang but passed the idea of lowering the car on to Shelby American.

By dropping the height of the body, the center of gravity is lowered.
This helped the handling of the car by reducing the body roll by 8% during cornering.

To do this modifications you need:

The lowering template full size included here
A lug wrench, a jack, some jack stands (you'll need to raise the front of the car to remove the wheels.)
A one-inch socket to remove the shock absorbers
A spring compressor
A three-quarter inch wrench to remove the control arm mounting nuts
An electric drill and a 17/32" bit (you might need a smaller bit to start the hole in the shock towers.)
A couple of cement blocks (or another set of jack stands) to support the rotor hub assembly.
This will take you at least 4 hours to do this job.
Renting a spring compressor will make the job a lot easier.

Steps:

1.Use the jack stands to support the front end. Remove the wheels and shock absorbers
2.Compress the front springs. You don't have to remove them although if you do it will give you more room to work
3.Use the cement block to support the brake rotor or lower control arm.
4.Unbolt the upper control arm from inside the engine compartment. Save the original shims (65 & 66 only).
5.Swing the upper control arm assembly, rotor and spindle assembly to the side. Don't strain the brake line.
6.Using the template from this article and trim out the holes.
7.Secure the template in place on the car using the original bolts in the original holes using 1/2 inch bolts. Note that this template is drawn for the driver's side. Flip it around to use on the passenger side.
8.Mark the center of the new holes using the template.
9.Drill the new holes. It probably will work best to drill a smaller hole in the center then work up in two or three steps to the 17/32" hole.
10.Install the upper control arms in the new mounting holes. Be sure to replace the alignment shims in the 65-66 models in the reverse order that you removed them. (Remove an even thickness of about 1/8"-1/4" of shims from each position to compensate for the increased positive camber affected by the lowering.)
11.Reassemble the front suspension by reversing the way you took it apart.
You'll have to have the front end of the car re-aligned.
Get it to a frame shop as soon as you can to save on excessive tire wear.
If you have wide tires on the front they may rub the fender now do to excessive positive camber.
You can help alleviate that by taking out more shims in the 65-66 or adjusting the lower control arm inner pivot on the 67-70 camber adjusting cam.
You can also use spring boosters to raise the front end off the tires or install smaller tires.
Using spring boosters kinda defeats the purpose of lowering the car though.  
If you use smaller tires make sure you have the tires and rims on the car you are going to use when you have the front end aligned. (and take out the spring boosters.)

Alignment specs for lowered Mustangs (only):

Chuck Cantwell, Shelby American GT 350 project engineer recommended 2 degrees positive caster, 1 degree negative camber and 1/8 " toe in for all years of Shelby Mustangs.  
You can play with settings for different applications.  
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Offline mikes68

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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2010, 10:56:47 PM »
;y
Cheers,
Mike

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2010, 11:06:19 PM »
Has anyone done this? I've read about it on Branda's website and Mustang Monthly. It's recommended for 65-70 Mustangs, not just Shelbys. I'm seriously thinking about it but I'd love to hear about any tips/traps before I do.
Rick

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« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2010, 11:15:29 PM »
Make sure when you do this that you check for any bind in the top ball joint. Fit a wedge kit to eliminate the issue.

I have posted this many times & cannot stress enough that you check it as you reassemble the suspension. If binding occurs you could have catastrophic suspension failure.

Also that is an old school trick & the newer version also lowers the rear hole by another 1/8" giving you more anti dive under braking.

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2010, 11:25:24 PM »
Quote from: mustang.org.au link=topic=10468.msg110696#msg110696
Make sure when you do this that you check for any bind in the top ball joint. Fit a wedge kit to eliminate the issue.

I have posted this many times & cannot stress enough that you check it as you reassemble the suspension. If binding occurs you could have catastrophic suspension failure.

Also that is an old school trick & the newer version also lowers the rear hole by another 1/8" giving you more anti dive under braking.


Thanks Kerry - two things then if you don't mind:
1. I'm showing my ignorance again - what is the binding you refer to - should I search for the posts? Definitely want to avoid catastrophes !
2. Is there a template you can point me towards for the newer mod? Although I'm certainly not going to be racing the old girl, so the old school mod may be enough?

Appreciate the tips.
Rick

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« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2010, 11:38:54 PM »
The binding can occur in the top ball joint. Way to test is to bolt up the top arm (without the dust cover on the ball joint) bolted to the spindle/bottom arm without the coil spring in place & take it all the way to bump (that is hitting the bump rubber). Check that the ball extension taper is not closer than 1mm away from the edge of the ball housing.

Then take the suspension to full droop (all the way down) & check for the same gap at least.

My suggestion when doing this mod is always to fit a wedge kit as that puts the ball joint in the correct geometry.

That extra 1/8" in the back will also help daily driving. Use the same template & just lower the rear dimension by the 1/8".

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2010, 11:42:14 PM »
Quote from: mustang.org.au link=topic=10468.msg110703#msg110703
The binding can occur in the top ball joint. Way to test is to bolt up the top arm (without the dust cover on the ball joint) bolted to the spindle/bottom arm without the coil spring in place & take it all the way to bump (that is hitting the bump rubber). Check that the ball extension taper is not closer than 1mm away from the edge of the ball housing.

Then take the suspension to full droop (all the way down) & check for the same gap at least.

My suggestion when doing this mod is always to fit a wedge kit as that puts the ball joint in the correct geometry.

That extra 1/8" in the back will also help daily driving. Use the same template & just lower the rear dimension by the 1/8".


Excellent, thanks a heap. One last thing: "wedge kit"? I will look for one - is that all it is called?
Rick

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« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2010, 11:42:50 PM »
I should add, if binding occurs, then it is likely that under extreme bump or rebound the ball will pull out of the socket, leaving the top arm swinging free, the wheel wanting to go in any direction it pleases, probably taking the brakes out with it & ending up who knows where depending on speed & direction of travel.

Not my idea of a pleasant outing.

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« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2010, 11:45:18 PM »
Google "negative wedge kit" , lots of reading there. Any decent Mustang vendor (NPD, Cal Mustang etc) should carry them.

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2010, 11:47:30 PM »
Ouch...I'm very glad you mentioned it.
Rick

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« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2010, 11:53:29 PM »
BTW, in the text on the initial post it is said it was used to lower the body. Not so. Hardly changes the ride height at all.

Real reason is that it lowers the "roll center" of the car, making a significant handling improvement.

Under the rules that the Shelby was conceived, was that a production car could have either suspension improvements or engine improvements.

The "Shelby GT350" was born to get around the rules allowing the R model to be built & raced. The GT 350 S model was the road car, the GT 350 R model being the modified race car with the changes allowed under the racing rules.

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2010, 11:53:42 PM »
Quote from: mustang.org.au link=topic=10468.msg110706#msg110706
Google "negative wedge kit" , lots of reading there. Any decent Mustang vendor (NPD, Cal Mustang etc) should carry them.


Got it, thanks. Looking back on the Mustang Monthly article, they use the negative wedge kit. :(
Rick

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2010, 11:57:44 PM »
Quote from: mustang.org.au link=topic=10468.msg110710#msg110710
BTW, in the text on the initial post it is said it was used to lower the body. Not so. Hardly changes the ride height at all.

 


Actually that's a bit of a disappointment. Although I wanted to improve the handling, I was really looking forward to dropping the front end a tad at the same time. The front end sits too high IMO (69 GT350) . It jest don't look right.
Rick

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« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2010, 12:02:39 AM »
Think about this, the spring cradle is positioned about center of the top arm. You are lowering the inside 1", the maximum drop would be 1/2", reality closer to 1/4"- 3/8", hardly noticeable in the scheme of things.

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #14 on: May 27, 2010, 12:20:38 AM »
Hmm, OK thanks.
Rick

Online Frank70

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« Reply #15 on: May 27, 2010, 02:41:48 PM »
Hi Rick.

I dare say this is the look you want :

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_1004_ford_mustang_eaton_detroit_springs/photo_06.html

From the article in MM from March I think.

Awesome looking Boss that one

Cheers,
Frank.

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #16 on: May 27, 2010, 03:29:46 PM »
Nice Frank, very nice. I'd do that to the Mustang, but not the 350. A bit too low I think and would have the potential to devalue it. I'll even settle for a half inch. The other aspect is that the power steering is so over assisted, I feel like I'm driving a ute with a huge load in the back, with the tyres barely hanging in there. So if I can get some better road feel and less roll it'll be good.
Rick

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« Reply #17 on: May 27, 2010, 04:11:03 PM »
Quote from: ponyride link=topic=10468.msg110799#msg110799
The other aspect is that the power steering is so over assisted, I feel like I'm driving a ute with a huge load in the back, with the tyres barely hanging in there. So if I can get some better road feel and less roll it'll be good.


That part is really easy while you do the mods or even if you don't.

The top arm,

Remove & replace the front mounting bolt with a longer one (longer by 3/8"). That allows you to shim the top arm with 3 X 1/8" spacers when refitting the top arm to the tower. Those shims fit between the tower & the front bolt position, giving you more caster. That along with winding more caster on the lower strut (caster) bars will give you 5 + degrees of caster. That equals road feel.

Common problem with a front end & wheel alignment that was designed for cross ply tyres & now running radials.

Also keeps the wheel in the center of the wheelarch preventing any rubbing of the fender lip on turns.

Also would not be picked or marked down in a concourse as you have not changed any parts, just adjustment.

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #18 on: May 27, 2010, 04:34:14 PM »
I like it, thanks mustang.org.au that would be a tremendous improvement. Minor point - it has the 'Goodyear Polyglas GT' tyres on it for originality (newish repros). Are they cross plys? I've been wanting to put some decent tyres on, but that means wheels too, as I'm not going to change tyres every time I want to show the car, but wheels/tyres would be do-able.
Rick

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« Reply #19 on: May 27, 2010, 05:01:52 PM »
Quote from: ponyride link=topic=10468.msg110810#msg110810
I like it, thanks mustang.org.au that would be a tremendous improvement. Minor point - it has the 'Goodyear Polyglas GT' tyres on it for originality (newish repros). Are they cross plys? I've been wanting to put some decent tyres on, but that means wheels too, as I'm not going to change tyres every time I want to show the car, but wheels/tyres would be do-able.


OK then, 2 X 1/8" shims on that bolt, aim for around 3 + degrees of caster. It is those Polyglas tyres that feel so bad. I have a set on Carol's Mach1 & I also have a set of alloy wheels & radials for cruising.

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #20 on: May 27, 2010, 06:31:51 PM »
Great, thanks.
Rick

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« Reply #21 on: May 27, 2010, 09:29:40 PM »
Hi Rick.

I didn't realise you had a Shelby - your post said 69 GT350 which threw me a bit - I figured it was a typo. You have the 69 and a Shelby ? Nice !

Cheers,
Frank.
 

Quote from: ponyride link=topic=10468.msg110799#msg110799
Nice Frank, very nice. I'd do that to the Mustang, but not the 350. A bit too low I think and would have the potential to devalue it. I'll even settle for a half inch. The other aspect is that the power steering is so over assisted, I feel like I'm driving a ute with a huge load in the back, with the tyres barely hanging in there. So if I can get some better road feel and less roll it'll be good.

Offline ponyride

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« Reply #22 on: May 27, 2010, 09:35:37 PM »
Thanks Frank, yes it's a nice car, just one of those things I didn't set out to do but it came up at reasonable price in the U.S. and I'd probably never get the chance again. Awesome colour combination of Royal Maroon and white. It's supposed to be a medium/long term thing, we'll see, I don't have a good track record as far as that goes.
Rick

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« Reply #23 on: May 27, 2010, 09:54:55 PM »
Oh yeah - brain fade. Yes, I see now the pic in Rick's avatar is a 70.

For some reason, I only think of the 350s as the 65-66s. As soon as I see a Shelby from 67-70, I think it's a 500 - go figure.

Thanks for setting me straight.

Cheers,
Frank.

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« Reply #24 on: May 27, 2010, 10:05:35 PM »
GT 500s are the most popular in the later years Frank, a 4 speed 500 would be a great thing to have. I was the same to be honest, when the GT 350 was offered to me I had to do some quick research, I didn't know anything about them, like you and most everybody else I only knew of the legendary 65/66 GT350s. Birchy to be fair, and to add more confusion I have had a white 69 Mach 1 in my avatar until recently and I have discussed the same car in a post or two, that's because I have it and the blue 70 Mach 1 coming from the States and I really don't know which one I'm going to keep as the Shelby really stuffed my plans up. Sorry for the confusion, I can't help but fiddle with the avatar every now and then - maybe I shouldn't but variety is the spice of life !
Rick